How Can I Get Pests Out of My Yard in Phoenix?

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Zap Termite & Pest Control, Inc.

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Orkin Pest Control Company

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Aptive Environmental

8145 Ronson Road, STE A, San Diego, CA 92111
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Anthem Pest Control

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Acme Pest Management Inc.

311 Rowena St, Wynne, AR 72396
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Ace Pest Control

5121 20th St W, Bradenton, FL 34207
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Accel Pest and Termite Control

1236 Jensen Dr, Virginia Beach, VA 23451
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ABC Home and Commercial Services Pest Control

10644 I-35 Frontage Rd, San Antonio, TX 78233
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Aardvark Pest Management Company

106 W 4th St, Howell, NJ 7731
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AAA Assassin Enterprise Pest Control

3905 SE Grimes Blvd # E, Grimes, IA 50111
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A-Ronu2019s Pest Control

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5 Star Termite and Pest Control

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  • Crickets
  • Wildlife
  • Mosquitoes

Like other cities in the region, Phoenix is plagued by nuisance wildlife, strange bugs, and hungry tree insects. While areas within the city are often hit harder than others, all homeowners should be prepared, just in case. 

Therefore, that’s why we’ve put together this handy guide to yard pests. Here, you’ll discover:

  • The types of problems you’ll encounter in the Phoenix area
  • The signs of infestation
  • How to combat these annoying creatures
  • Prevention measures you can use to help protect your home. 

Raccoons

Adult raccoons are about two to three feet long while their young look just like them, only a smaller version. They prefer wooded areas and mostly den in brush piles, ground burrows, and hollow trees. 

Raccoons eat almost anything, including:

  • Fruits
  • Berries
  • Nuts
  • Corn
  • Grains
  • Fish
  • Frogs 
  • Snails 
  • Insects

Pet food left out in the open is a tempting treat for raccoons. They’re also quite fond of birdseed and spilled garbage cans containing leftover food. 

Identifying the Problem

Look for damaged garden fruits and vegetables. For example, raccoons will climb corn stalks to gain access to the kernels. 

They also roll up newly laid sod looking for grubs and insects to eat. However, raccoons seldom dig, so if you have several holes in your yard, it could be a mole or gopher. 

Also, look for damage to your home on the outside. For example, ripped fascia boards or dented roof ventilators could be a sign of raccoon infestation. 

Trapping

Before setting your first raccoon trap, it’s a good idea to contact the local branch of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. They go over the latest regulations with you and provide valuable information concerning local release areas once you capture the animal. 

When trapping raccoons, it’s vital to use the correct trap. A live cage trap that is at least 10 inches wide and 32 inches long is preferable. Bait it with either canned dog food or rotting watermelon. 

Prevention

It’s best to avoid enticing raccoons with food to prevent them from destroying your yard. So, be sure to secure all trash cans and store pet food in sealed containers. In addition, it’s advisable to keep your yard free of fallen fruits and nuts.

Frightening devices are available that automatically turn on using motion detectors. You can purchase units that provide flashing lights, noises, and even squirting water to drive off wildlife pests. However, it’s crucial to rotate the equipment since raccoons typically get used to it within a matter of days. 

Grubs

Grubs are large, C-shaped beetle larvae with black stripes on their backs. You can also identify them by their brown head capsules and legs. 

All grubs need a turfgrass host to survive. These include annual bluegrass, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass, among others. 

Identifying the Problem

Grubs feed on the roots of turfgrass. Typical damage appears as dying grass, especially in the late summer or fall. Also, you may start to notice higher than usual bird, wildlife, and mole activity due to an increase in grubs as a preferred food source. 

Controlling Grubs

Aerating your lawn has the potential to kill grubs as long as they feed close to the surface. Also, keeping your grass healthy by using proper irrigation and fertilization can go a long way to increasing your lawn’s tolerance for the pest. 

Insecticides such as imidacloprid are available in either spray or granular formulations. In addition, beneficial nematodes can be effective for killing grubs during the early stages of their lifecycle.  

Fire Ants

Native and non-native fire ant species both have a devastating effect on your yard. These vicious, biting bests construct huge mounds, creating widespread damage. They also have the potential to cause acute health problems from their nasty stings. 

Identifying the Problem

Most fire ant species are about 1/16 to 1/5 inches long and are typically dark reddish-brown. Their mounds can either be dome-shaped or display several entrance holes with scattered soil around them. In addition, they sometimes nest in hollow logs, electrical utility boxes, and wall voids in buildings. 

There are two primary control measures for fire ants:

Drenching 

Drench the entire mound using a wettable powder containing 0.05% cyfluthrin. If you have a foam injector, it’s best to treat several points on the mound to achieve the best results.  

Baiting

Bait granules labeled for fire ants are best for killing the entire colony. While they work slower than drenching, you can be assured that the queen will eventually be eliminated.

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